🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.